Lamu: Tortoise Coitus and Farting Yogis

It has been six years since I was last in Lamu and as I squeeze through the narrow alleys towards the house where I am being hosted, memories pop out at me from each corner. I had forgotten how specific Lamu town smells. The humidity in the area teases out an almost aromatic fragrance from the … Continue reading Lamu: Tortoise Coitus and Farting Yogis


Dip Tea in Mumbai

‘The whole of Nairobi is ours.’ The hairy-toed man with orange hennaed floppy hair declares. He stands on a round platform on top of the shop counter. I am having difficulty taking him seriously right now, because his left hip is thrust out and he has an exquisite brushed gold Parisian lace sari wrapped around … Continue reading Dip Tea in Mumbai

Mumbai Missive 2: Horn Ok Please

One day, perhaps quite a long time ago, Bhaisab, a rather clever Mumbai driver with a curled up moustache decided that really it was quite inefficient to have to come to a complete stop at a junction before entering the road. He had what could be considered a brainwave. If he could find a way to alert … Continue reading Mumbai Missive 2: Horn Ok Please

Mumbai Missives: Third First Impression

It  is my third time here and at dawn, Mumbai is nothing like Nairobi. Driving in from the airport at 6:30 am, the city still waking up, has a ruffled intimacy about it;  a city that has yet to brush its teeth and put itself together. The smell of warm sleep thick in the air, … Continue reading Mumbai Missives: Third First Impression